Another day in Paradise…

My host mom Maria told me yesterday she needed some help carrying a bag of grain, generally a sign of an impending hernia risk for me. I was splitting some wood today when she asked me to come with her. I was pleasantly surprised when we walked just a few doors up to one of my favorite neighbors.

1. They have two giant eagle heads and roses painted on their garage doors. (I will post a picture soon)

2. The lady (Paulina, not exactly her name but it is something like that) is 94 years old and still quite spry and not hesitant to speak her mind.

My host mom Maria in the snow

My host mom Maria in the snow

 

Forrest in Donduseni, before the snow got too deep

Forrest in Donduseni, before the snow got too deep

3. The guy, ( I thought his name was also  Paulina for a while, but now I am unsure) Paulina’s son, is about 70, many gold teeth, and loves Jana. Specifically, he loves telling me how beautiful Jana is, and tells me to buy her flowers a lot.

Maria and I go into their house, which is small but tidy, two rooms, no running water, but the soba is hot and they are cooking borscht. It smells very good and the house is toasty. I forget the details exactly, but I ended up drinking a jelly jar half full of moonshine, and eating a slice of bread with a piece of pig fat on it about the size of a deck of cards. I watched Maria sprinkle hers with salt, and bite a raw clove of garlic after the sandwich, and that did help. I couldn’t get through the strip of skin, so I secretly slipped it in my pocket to give the dog later. This was about noon, I tried to get out of all of it, I really did, but I am severely handicapped in the language department. (Although they both spoke a little Romanian, most of this was in Russian, but they were both really excited that I could speak at all)

I was a little queasy and hazy at this point, (is that quazy?) but I remember Paulina going outside with a bucket.  She returned in a few minutes with it filled full of flour. It weighed 7 kilos. I felt like a jerk for not helping her, but I had offered, and she does get around remarkably well. They invited me back anytime, which I will definitely take them up on, but I need to figure out a way to turn down the liquor.

After that I went to talk to Igor, my Romanian tutor, and made the mistake of telling him about my lunch, and that I enjoyed it. He laughed and laughed. I meant that I enjoyed the experience, but I’m afraid I am going to be seeing more room temperature fat sandwiches in my future. He did invite me fishing this summer, so that is something to look forward too.

I have had yet another great day. I swear I learn so much that writing these posts could be a full time job. Thanks a bunch for reading this, I appreciate your time and attention.

I’ve never picked a grape, but I’ve cut me a bunch.

I really wanted to have a hand in wine making, both because it seems like a good thing to know, and everyone here works like the ants in the parable with that lazy ‘ol grasshopper, and could use an extra hand whenever one is available. Unless I’m getting it mixed up, like if the ants are the lazy ones. Anyway, I offered several farmers my unskilled grape labor, and finally got a chance to show just how much I don’t know.

My host mom has grapes, I didn’t think she had enough to press, or she is busy with other things, like yelling. So I was pleasantly surprised when she might have said something about making wine, or maybe she said something about soup, either one. She borrowed a big oak barrel from our neighbor and handed me a bucket. She has about 30 yards worth of grapevine, stretched end to end, I have been eating one or two since I got here, to see how they were coming, and in the last week, they really got good.

There is not much to it. I would fill a bucket with bunches of grapes, (including the stems but no leaves) dump it into a hopper on top of the barrel. The hopper had a handle that turned two cylinders together like a wringer. Secretly, I rescued several spiders from this terrible fate, terrible for both of us, as I don’t want to drink spider guts, and I doubt they want me to drink them, either. It was a flawed system though, because I only helped those spiders I saw, which leads me to believe there may have been one or two who slipped past my vigilance. But lets not speak of this again. Jana assisted with quality control and keeping an eye peeled for the rooster. He was no help at all.

In an hour or so, we had the barrel about ¾ full, and no more grapes to feed that insatiable hopper. To recap: grapes go in to the pulp-erator. And that’s it. Maria covered the barrel with a piece of oilcloth and I waited eagerly for the fermentation process to start, and like most vigils, I totally missed it.

On day two, the crushed stems were almost to the top, I presume swollen from the juice? Anyway, Maria stirred with a stick, and the juice was definitely foamy. She though it was going to rain that night, and we didn’t have a good lid, so we brought her big aluminum wine cask from her cellar and washed it out well. (and by washed out well, I mean the opposite of that, not washed out well.) Then we put it back in the cellar and started filling it with buckets of juice from the bunghole (that really is the correct term, totally not making that up).

We got 120 liters, give or take 10, out of her yard. I was really surprised, it didn’t look like that many grapes. Also, Maria hadn’t made wine since her husband died ten years ago, so I was happy to help her with it, and she seemed genuinely happy to show me something new, and to use her otherwise bird food grapes. It really is hard to tell if she is happy ever, though. She’s a bit of a sourpuss, but she has had a hard life, and works incredibly hard for survival.

The pulpy residue is used to make raku, that nasty alcohol I keep going on about. I will keep you posted on how it is made, I suspect there is fingernail polish remover involved in the process, somehow, and a human soul. In a month, we will have some delicious spider juice, fingers crossed. A cultural note, I have been around a couple of farmers who drink vodka to sterilize the otherwise dirty food they eat, or maybe they like to drink vodka in the morning and that’s a good excuse. Either way. And technically it was the same farmer, twice.

Whatever also they discuss when sober, is always a second time examined after they have been drinking.
Herodotus (485 – 425 BC)