Get started in getting started in high value agriculture.

The first thing to make perfectly clear is; “what is high value agriculture?” Is it those fancy chickens? The ones with feathers on their feet? Or perhaps lilacs? Maybe it’s growing lilacs for the perfume or table decorating market?  Both of these might be true. Or neither. But it’s probably the chickens.

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In my experience, high value agriculture involves arguing in a foreign language (in this case, Russian) with two or more people, at ever increasing volumes. And at least one of those parties should be on a cell phone the entire time. This argument can range from two minutes to several days, and should almost reach the logical conclusion of one person throttling the other (or others) with a plastic shopping bag.

At some mutually agreed upon point (only slightly before the shopping bag is used with deadly intent)  both parties will, with great flourish, remove certain papers, carefully selected, from the plastic bag. These papers are the placed on my card-table work station, carefully smoothing any wrinkles which may have resulted from striking their colleagues.  The chosen pages will have a weathered, caramel patina, like an original copy of the Magna Carta, or Nick Nolte.

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Additionally, the lower third should display a bruised rainbow of official stamps, which is a good opportunity to introduce the co-star of this lush drama, the stampila.

Nothing, and I mean that in the strictest definition, nothing is official here without at least one stampila being applied with great force and consideration. Stampila, for the uninitiated, are a small aluminum disk, about the size of a half-dollar, in two parts, which contains a persons private stamp.

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I have heard, from fools, that this stamp is registered with the government and is similar to a business license. That is stupid. The stampila is a priceless relic and a birthright of select people. This is a fact. They are literally born with it, in a little pouch of skin, similar to a kangaroo’s pouch, where they will later wear a black vinyl fanny pack, for convenience.

Being born with a stampila is a great honor and burden, like being born with a superfluous nipple, or an extra set of teeth, behind the regular set, which flip forward, when necessary, like a sharks.

The stampila is applied to everything, but isn’t used willy-nilly. Anything another person  might see, or be called upon to see, or asked if they have been called upon to see, gets a stampila. It’s quite simple. Some stampila also get stampila-ed. Some receipts get them, always with eye contact and a wink, which implies, “Save this valuable slip of paper, you will be visited, late at night, by officials who will demand proof your coffee mug was obtained legally.”

My next business project will be setting up a counterfeit stampila operation, kind of like a fake ID stand in Tijuana, but for disenfranchised Moldovans in place of thirsty high school students. Too long have the elite wielded the power of the mighty stampila! Let’s smash this glass ceiling! Let’s all get started in high value agriculture!

Amazing Grace

“It’s really a wonder that I haven’t dropped all my ideals, because they seem so absurd and impossible to carry out. Yet I keep them, because in spite of everything, I still believe that people are really good at heart.”
                  Anne Frank The Diary of a Young Girl

Ok, adding yet again to the backlog of blog posts I have yet to write (Brasov, boboceli, and cumnatria) I had an interesting experience today that I have to relay.

After work I needed to go to the piata (the market) to get a 20 kilo bag of potatoes for my host mom. This is exactly the kind of task I enjoy because a) it lets me show off my relatively good buying potatoes skills, and b) carrying heavy things, at which I excel. I arrived at 1 o’clock, just as the stands were closing down, but I found a new lady selling vegetables, in a stall where a guy usually sells used power cords. I executed my transaction flawlessly, and threw in a request for a half kilo of mushrooms, as they are not available often and I know how to say “mushroom, please” in Romanian. Here is where the confusion sets in. I was wearing gloves, had one hand full of my super-awesome work related briefcase, lets see, I also had brought my own bag for the mushrooms, and needed to fish in my front pocket for my wallet.

So the end result is, hours later, at home, and after a pretty heavy snow, my wallet was not where it lives. For those of you who know me, I am what is politely called “regimented” in certain aspects of my life. For example, If I am going to be 5 minutes late for work, my whole day is shot. That sounds crazy and I know it is, but if things aren’t a certain way, I’m in a dither. Suffice it to say my wallet is in my front pocket, always.

After turning my house upside down, searching my pants pockets over and over again, and contemplating going through the trash cans in the park at night, in the snow. I realized the best approach would be to start where I had last seen it, namely potato lady.

In my wallet was about a hundred dollars in Moldovan Lei, my residency card, and a twenty dollar bill for old times sake. Needless to say, that is more money than anyone in my town sees in a month. The loss of the money would have put me in a bind, and the card could be replaced, what was killing me was that (if) someone had picked up my wallet and taken the money, they would definitely know it was mine (as the only man in town with glasses and apparently I dress like a weirdo to them) and had knowingly kept it. So that is where my thinking was at 3 o’clock this morning.

After practicing how to say “wallet” in Russian, I went to the potato store. Before I even got in the store, the lady ran out, smiling and holding my wallet! She said I had left it and she didn’t know my telephone number, and that she was afraid I lived in Chisinau. (Which is a polite way of saying I speak very poorly.) She opened my wallet and carefully counted all the money, my ID card, and even a 1 leu bill wedged in the bottom I didn’t know was there. She was so proud to help me, I was humbled mightily that I had spend a sleepless night doubting the honesty of everyone in town, and to be shown that I was spectacularly wrong.

My faith in humanity restored, I insisted she take 400 lei as a reward. I hope I have learned several lessons from this, the greatest of which is that people are often amazing.  Just when I am prepared for the worst, I encounter a ray of sunshine and I know everything will be just fine.

(Pretend this is a picture of me and a smiling lady at a piata booth.   I’m embarrassed I only know her as “potato lady”)

Another day in Paradise…

My host mom Maria told me yesterday she needed some help carrying a bag of grain, generally a sign of an impending hernia risk for me. I was splitting some wood today when she asked me to come with her. I was pleasantly surprised when we walked just a few doors up to one of my favorite neighbors.

1. They have two giant eagle heads and roses painted on their garage doors. (I will post a picture soon)

2. The lady (Paulina, not exactly her name but it is something like that) is 94 years old and still quite spry and not hesitant to speak her mind.

My host mom Maria in the snow

My host mom Maria in the snow

 

Forrest in Donduseni, before the snow got too deep

Forrest in Donduseni, before the snow got too deep

3. The guy, ( I thought his name was also  Paulina for a while, but now I am unsure) Paulina’s son, is about 70, many gold teeth, and loves Jana. Specifically, he loves telling me how beautiful Jana is, and tells me to buy her flowers a lot.

Maria and I go into their house, which is small but tidy, two rooms, no running water, but the soba is hot and they are cooking borscht. It smells very good and the house is toasty. I forget the details exactly, but I ended up drinking a jelly jar half full of moonshine, and eating a slice of bread with a piece of pig fat on it about the size of a deck of cards. I watched Maria sprinkle hers with salt, and bite a raw clove of garlic after the sandwich, and that did help. I couldn’t get through the strip of skin, so I secretly slipped it in my pocket to give the dog later. This was about noon, I tried to get out of all of it, I really did, but I am severely handicapped in the language department. (Although they both spoke a little Romanian, most of this was in Russian, but they were both really excited that I could speak at all)

I was a little queasy and hazy at this point, (is that quazy?) but I remember Paulina going outside with a bucket.  She returned in a few minutes with it filled full of flour. It weighed 7 kilos. I felt like a jerk for not helping her, but I had offered, and she does get around remarkably well. They invited me back anytime, which I will definitely take them up on, but I need to figure out a way to turn down the liquor.

After that I went to talk to Igor, my Romanian tutor, and made the mistake of telling him about my lunch, and that I enjoyed it. He laughed and laughed. I meant that I enjoyed the experience, but I’m afraid I am going to be seeing more room temperature fat sandwiches in my future. He did invite me fishing this summer, so that is something to look forward too.

I have had yet another great day. I swear I learn so much that writing these posts could be a full time job. Thanks a bunch for reading this, I appreciate your time and attention.

Learning the lingo…

Lets see here, I am currently on my 6th month living in Moldova, by which time most people would assume I am speaking flawless Romanian, (the national language is Moldovan, but the languages are interchangeable.) And you would be correct, of course. A Romanian professor felt my accent was a little too perfect, and suggested I try to intentionally sound more Dutch to lend credibility to my claims of being a beginner.

…And then I wake up from that dream. The truth is, I am beginning to suspect I might be an idiot. ( I bet Jeff Foxworthy wouldn’t have been as quotable if his shtick was …you might be an idiot if…) I think I get by ok, in the same way that a 2 year old can get some water in a pinch, but abstract thoughts generally escape me. Personally, I feel like a success with the glass of water level of communication for now, but in the future, I’m going to need to step up my game.

The first 2 months in country, we all had intensive language and cultural training with some really dedicated teachers. I felt relatively solid about my skills at that point, and confident to travel to my permanent site. I can buy bread! And tell the time! And say good morning at night! But when I arrived in Donduseni, everyone spoke differently. Lots of Russian, and Ukrainian, which I have currently given up all hope of learning, but even the Romanian was different. Sometimes it’s faster, or slurred almost, and they pronounce “v” like “b”, which doesn’t sound like that big a deal, but it just throws me. I get hopelessly lost.

At work I sit and listen for 4 hours a day. (I do other things too, like study language, or prepare business seminars.) Whenever I can though, I listen. Some people I can’t make out at all. Accent or every other word is Russian, whatever, I literally cannot make out a word. Some people I understand the words fine, but I can’t make out the meaning. I get the first sentence, no problem, but then the second sentence seems to contradict the first, and so on, ad infinitum. This happens quite often, several time a day.

limba Romania

My nemesis

I feel like I’m drowning in words. I’m underneath an ocean of words, and more flooding down, all the time. After a while I can’t even hear them, I’m trying, (vainly) to grab hold of the context, to understand anything, something familiar, like the time or fruits and vegetables. (Which I’m proud to say, I do know pretty well.) My eyes must surely glaze over, because the person conversing at me slowly ceases speaking, and looks at me with what I’m sure is sympathy, gives me a gentle pat on the head and goes off, in pursuit of more active understanding.

I have a language tutor, a Romanian teacher from the high school, in fact. At first I hated her, she was impatient, finishing my sentences when I paused too long, or too focused on grammar, insisting that my job here is to learn to speak well. That is important, and I have had many sleepless nights wondering how my verbs were conjugating, (It’s 10 o’clock, do you know the present tense tu form of a aduaga?) but I have more important fish to fry. After a while I enjoyed going to her house to transcribe her lessons of things I learned in my first week here. She always reminds me how advanced Jana is also, how she speaks 3 languages and is a much better student than me. That kills me. So I’m back to not enjoying my time with her.

I found a new tutor today, he is married to one of Jana’s co-workers. A regular guy, drives a truck for the gas company. Very patient, gives me all the time in the world to reach my convoluted point. Sometimes I resort to pantomime, or drawing pictures, whatever it takes to get my point across. But I think this is a real turning point for me. I feel more (realistic, hopefully) confident than I have in a long time. I feel I am on my way to being able to speak like a grownup. It’s been a long time coming, I will tell you that.

This is me skinning a rabbit. It has nothing to do with this post, but I like the picture.

This is me skinning a rabbit. It has nothing to do with this post, but I like the picture. I might not be able to talk like Moldovan, but I can peel animals with the best of them.